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Barcelona Impressions – 3

Dear friends,

last week was truly packed with tours and further long and extensive walks – I hardly know where to start…

Sunday we rented a car and drove to Montserrat and Sitges. The rock formations of Montserrat are really impressive from near and far. For some 10 kilometers you need to drive up hair pin turns in order to reach the Montserrat abbey parking area. From there the famous abbey can be visited and it is the ideal starting point for hikes and climbing tours. Unfortunately we were by far not the only ones who thought about going to Montserrat on a Sunday at all… the amount of company we had was sufficient to make us queue for about 90 minutes far before we reached the parking… at least almost. We turned around before. Nevertheless, it was worth it as we had beautiful vistas.

View on Montserrat -1

Abbey on Montserrat

In the beautiful coastal town of Sitges we spent the afternoon. We roamed through the streets, walked alongside the beach and promenades and had an excellent lunch – and we returned back to Barcelona all relaxed.

Family picture Sitges

Flower Power Girls!

In Barcelona the so called Modernisme (http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Modernisme) – Art Nouveau present all over the place. The best known representative is probably Antoni Gaudi, but there are more – such as Lluis Domenech i Montaner who have left their marks. And the marks of both we have followed this week.

We visited Sagrada Familia – including 2 of its towers (by A. Gaudi) and the Palau de la Musica Catalana by Lluis Domenech i Montaner.

Sagrada Familia, which is supposed to be completed by 2030 is very interesting to see from time to time. The changes and the increasing impression it makes are exciting to witness. So we ordered the tickets online (which was pretty effortless) and just bypassed the queues, showed the Smartphone/tablet and in we were at the scheduled time. Very handy.

Windows of Sagrada Familia

Stairs in a tower of Sagrada Familia

But when it comes to the towers it has to be mentioned that the stairs are seriously not for people suffering from vertigo. The famous photographs where the stairs look like snails are very real and I admit we all were breathing heavily when we eventually reached the bottom…

Stairs in a tower of Sagrada Familia (looking down)

View on Barcelona from Sagrada Familia Tower

Stairs in Sagrada Familia -2

The Palau de la Musica Catalana is another building listed by the UNESCO World Heritage.

Building the music palace has been a historic enterprise. It was financed privately in order to give the choires of Barcelona an opportunity to practise and present themselves – which was not possible before. The Palau gave a joint home both to bourgeoise and classical music.

Ceiling light in Palau de la Musica

Palau de la Musica Catalana

And as we were in the middle of a rush of culture we enjoyed La Traviata in the Liceu – in an opulent and gorgeous building. What an environment for a wonderful opera! I can’t remember when I last had a week so filled with culture and “landscape” at a time….

The next post will most likely come from The Hague (The Netherlands) where I will be for the coming 14 months. And I am sure that there will be a lot of stories to be told.

Barcelona Impressions – 2

Dear friends,

by now we got used to city life again and enjoy it to spend as much time as possible outdoors. We walk the streets, parks and the beach for hours each and every day and I start wondering how it will feel being back in an office again…

One of our walks led us to to the Carreter de les Aiguës

Carreterra de las Aiguës -1

Entrance into Carreterra de les Aiguës

– a stretch of 9 kilometers which follows the mountain Tibidabo in a relatively flat way. Throughout the walk there are wonderful views onto Barcelona and the sea – it is really worth a visit. Only the entrances into the Carreterra de les Aiguës are rather under-developed – hardly recognisable. That is especially surprising as the trail is heavily used by joggers, cyclists and hikers. But probably it’s only that us people from Northern Europe are being complicated in this case…

Tibidabo

View to Tibidabo from Funicular

We meet our friends here very often over lunch. They keep their agendas at work free for a while and we can catch up for a few hours. Even though that might not seem much – it is a very intense time we spend together. And this time we can even see some of them more than once – what a privilege! But I admit that when we bumped into 2 ex-colleagues from Deutsche Bank (which I left 11 years ago! ) in a small bar/restaurant in Gracia called “Gata Mala” it was a moment when many of us were quite speechless…!

The weekend we went to Montserrat and Sitges with a rented car. Our initial idea to drive along part of Costa Brava in order to repeat some of the nicest streches of the bicycle tour by car turned out too ambitious – it would have been all in all too much driving. It has to be another time 🙂

So it is good bye from us for now, “Good Bye”

Claudia & Olli

P.S: Special thanks to Toni for giving me his FC Barcelona “Carnets” which allowed me to watch a match from a superb location in Camp Nou! I enjoyed it very much!

Barcelona Impressions -1

Dear friends,

after we arrived 10 days ago in Barcelona we noticed how incredibly lucky we have been in with respect to the weather on our bike tour. While we reached Barcelona on Saturday enjoying the lovely weather the entire region suffered from heavy rain and flooding. It would have been a real challenge if we would still have been cycling under those conditions.

But instead we were able to focus on relaxing our tired muscles and take a rest.
It is an interesting experience that after cycling 4 weeks we almost felt bored when in Barcelona. During the bike trip we were busy with planning the stages, looking for accommodation, packing and un-packing the panniers. Then followed hours and hours on the bikes and the daily washing of sweaty cycling clothes – our days were filled and followed a certain rhythm. All of that disappeared reaching the finish line. The learning for future bike trips is that we will not plan to stay at the final destination for that long again

On the other hand we have by now reached a more “normal holiday rhythm” and roam around the city by foot. This weekend we went to visit the “Cavatast” in Sant Sadurni (Penedés) which takes place every year on the first weekend of October (and is very easily to be reached from Barcelona using the R4 train from Plaza Catalonia). Some 50 Cava producers present their cavas (which is a bubbly wine produced like a champagne) and you find all kind of local delicacies typical for the region.

Cava Tast meal 2014

Sant Sarduni de Penedés

In general we have the feeling that there are far more tourists in Barcelona than a couple of years ago. Park Guell was so overrun by visitors and streetsellers that we fled from it as soon we found the next exit. That’s been an entirely new experience… New as well was that both Park Guell and Hospital Sant Pau are asking entrance fees now.

Hospital San Pau, Barcelona

One of the things that can be seen all over Barcelona and Catalonia these days are posters and flags which demand the independence vote on November 9th. It keeps surprising me how different press announcements and reports on the topic are by Catalan or Spanish press. The polemic and almost disgust in the news from Madrid are impressive and from my perspective not helping to find a solution or bridge the gaps. For me being allowed to give an opinion is a basic right in a democratic state – and that is what is behind the vote that people ask. It is getting people’s opinion on the topic of a Catalan independence from Spain – which as well those Catalans want who are against indepedence. What will happen as a result out of the vote is still completely unclear. Yet the vote as such has been forbidden by the central government, the language used is rather provoking. It will be a tense time coming up and I hope that there will not be further escalation…

“It is normal to vote”
Catalans advertising for independence vote on 9th November 2014

Leg 22, 23 & 24: Mountains!

Dear Friends,

leg 21 finished in Argeles sur Mer with a lovely dinner and in the morning we had a great breakfast and like pseudo-athletes we ate as many scrambled eggs as we posssibly could to prepare ourselves for the mountains.

“Le Cottage” in Argeles sur Mer

Coullioure

The first steep uphills were not far away and up we went and after that down until we reached the sea again in the gorgeous Collioure. After a short break dedicated to photos (Claudia) and navigation checks (Olli) we continued in the best of moods. The stretch we had just completed would have been one which I would not have been able to do only four weeks ago without pushing the bike. Now we both happily roamed across the hills.

Last views on France

And so it went on all day: Up and down in an impressively steep manner. The landscape was spectacular and I really did not expect to hear myself saying that: It was an unbelievably beautiful bicycle day! On one of the highest points of our journey we entered Spain. After some 1700 kilometers cycling from Bonn.

Spain!!

To reach Llança, our destination for the day there were another 20 kilometers of hills to do, but we were over the moon what a wonderful day we were experiencing! If anyone ever visits Llança please do not forget to go to the restaurant Fornall Mari. It is an excellent little place with caring and knowledgeable service and brilliant food – a real highlight.

From Llança we started stage 23 to Palamos – overrall a rather flat stage compared to the day before. Well… it started actually with a last steep climb of which ended the Pyrenees for us. Then there was flatness…! In Castello Empuria we had a brief stop to admire the mediaval village centre and the church before we continued our journey. Our route joined the Pirinexus ever so often which runs through the Pyrenees away from cars and other traffic. Whenever we met it though the route was in really bad condition and it became our hobby to actually try to avoid this bikeroute which has been awarded the bicycle route of the year 2014!

Castel with Catalan flag

Castello de Empuries – Church

With Palamos we eventually reached that part of Costa Brava where mass-tourism feels at home. Looking from the positive side on it mass-tourism means that you easily find a place to stay in off-season and restaurants are prepared to feed you at times no local would ever think about eating (in Spain: between 5 and 7 pm … at that time we are just freshly showered and a bit rested and REALLY hungry…). Therefore… no complaints – it all has its own advantages!

Old bridge on day 23

Palamos was the starting point for our leg 24 and there we went further south and approached the second hill-stage. While Olli seemed to hardly sweat I had a hard time on this leg. We had to do more breaks to get over the Costa Brava hills – and yes… there is a very good reason to call it Costa Brava. It is a very wild coast! We met a Swiss lady on her bike tour as well – Maja. She has just become a pensionist and decided to take on her bike and cycle to Malaga from Zürich. Impressive. Despite of tired legs it was a great day again – over and over we were rewarded with excellent vistas after a climb. The stretch between Sant Feliu de Grixols and Tossa de Mar is known as well as the “Road of the Year”: 365 curves each presenting impressive vistas! Today`s destination is Blanes and tomorrow it will be Barcelona!

Vista from “Road of the year” – Costa Brava

So it is Good Bye from us – Bye Bye (and Adeu!)

Claudia & Olli

Tag 22, 23 & 24: Die Berge rufen!

Liebe Freunde,

der Tag 21 endete in Argeles sur Mer mit einem schönen Essen und wir haben morgens ein tolles Frühstück genossen und uns pseudo-sportlermässig Rühreier in den Bauch geschlagen, damit wir auch in Sachen Essen auf die Berge vorbereitet waren.

Die ersten Steigungen liessen auch nicht lange auf sich warten und es ging hoch auf die Anhöhe und dann runter bis ans Meer in das wunderschöne Collioure. Nach einer kurzen

Pause für Fotos (Claudia) und Kartenkontrolle (Olli) ging es mit bester Laune weiter. Schon diese Strecke hätte ich noch vor vier Wochen unmöglich geschafft ohne abzusteigen und jetzt zockelten wir beide beinahe gemütlich über die Strecke.

“Le Cottage” in Argeles sur Mer

Coullioure

Und so ging es auch weiter. Immer wieder hoch und runter mit knackigen Steigungen und ebenso knackigen Abfahrten. Die Landschaft war entsprechend spektakulär und ich hätte wirklich nicht gedacht, dass ich das sagen würde: Es war ein ganz toller Fahrradtag! An einem der höchsten Punkte kam dann der offizielle Grenzübergang und wir waren in Spanien. Nach etwa 1700 Kilometern Fahrtstrecke von Bonn.

Last views on France

Spain!!

Bis Llança waren es dann noch etwa 20 Kilometer – die wiederum mit Steigungen und Abfahrten gespickt waren. Falls jemand mal nach Llança kommt – Ihr solltet unbedingt versuchen im Fonall Mari zu essen. Ein tolles kleines Restaurant mit liebenswerter Bedienung und ausgezeichnetem Essen – ein absolutes Highlight!

Von Llança ging es am Tag 23 nach Palamos – die Etappe war eher flach. Allerdings mussten wir dafür erst einmal ein letztes Mal eine Steigung eines Pyrenäenausläufers erklimmen. Aber danach war es flach. In Castello Empuria haben wir kurz angehalten um das mittelalterliche Dorfzentrum und die Kirche anzusehen, bevor es dann weiter ging. Die Stecke ging immer wieder in den Pirinexus über, einen Radwanderweg der abseits der Strassen durch die Pyrenäen führt. Da der Belag wann immer wir auf ihn trafen wirklich schlecht war, wurde es zu unserem Hobby diesen als Radwanderweg 2014 ausgezeichneten Weg zu vermeiden. Unter allen Umständen zu vermeiden!

Castel with Catalan flag

Castello de Empuries – Church

In Palamos erreichen wir auch ultimativ den Teil der Costa Brava, in dem sich der Massentourismus zu Hause fühlt. Positiv bedeutet Massentourismus natürlich: Man findet in der Nachsaison einfach eine Unterkunft und Restaurants sind auch zu den Zeiten geöffnet wenn kein normaler Einheimische auf die Idee käme zu essen (in Spanien: zwischen 5 und 7 am Abend… dann sind wir gerade geduscht und ausreichend ausgeruht um RICHTIG hungrig zu sein…). Also wollen wir mal nicht meckern – es hat alles seine Vorteile!

Old bridge on day 23

Palamos haben wir dann am Tag 24 weiter Richtung Süden die zweite “Bergetappe” in Angriff genommen. Und während Olli kaum ins Schwitzen zu kommen schien ist mir die Etappe eher schwer gefallen. Also mussten wir ein paar Pausen mehr einlegen um über die Berge der Costa Brava zu kommen. Jaja – die hat ihren Namen aus einem guten Grund… es ist eine wilde Küste. Wir haben auch eine Schweizerin, Maja getroffen, die ihre Pensionierung dazu nutzt jetzt erst mal von Zürich aus aufs Rad zu steigen und nach Malaga zu radeln. Hut ab! Es war trotz schwerer Beine eine tolle Tour – die Anstiege werden eben immer wieder durch wunderschöne Aussichten belohnt. Die Strecke zwischen Sant Feliu de Grixols ist im Volksmund bekannt als die “Strasse des Jahres”: 365 Kurven und jede mit beeindruckenden Aussicht! Endpunkt heute ist Blanes und morgen geht es nach Barcelona – wir sind auf der Zielgeraden!

Vista from “Road of the year” – Costa Brava

Bis bald und Adeu!

Claudia & Olli

Tag 20 & 21: Genuss-Radeln in Roussillion

Liebe Freunde,

die letzten beiden Etappen haben Frankreich`s Süden in all seiner Schönheit präsentiert und uns 2 Tage Fahrrad-Hochgenuss beschert. Vielleicht haben wir uns auch – im besten Sinne – inzwischen daran gewöhnt, dass der Radweg eben meistens keinen guten Belag h

at (wenn er welchen hat…), dass wir jetzt oft anhalten müssen um neben der Karte noch die Offline-App für Frankreich und Google-Maps zu prüfen, ob wir denn wirklich richtig fahren. Die Etappe 20 führte uns von Sete nach Gruissan. Eine hübsche ruhige Strecke bei der man den Abschiedsschmerz von Chez Francois langsam verdauen konnte…

Gruissan

Gruissan Village live

Gruissan ist eine hübsche kleine Stadt mit ganz viel Charme. Zum verlieben schön ist die direkte Umgebung, die Richtung Port la Nouvelle, die wir am Morgen der 21. Fahrtages durchfahren sind. Am Horizont die Pyrenäen, die Marschlandschaft, wunderbare Radwege – was ein Genuss! Ich wäre am liebsten gar nicht mehr weg.

Between Gruissan and Port la Nouvelle

Marshes between Gruissan and Port la Nouvelle

Nach Port la Nouvelle fanden wir dann eine Streckensperrung – Filmdreharbeiten! Wir wurden vom freundlichen Streckenposten gebeten schnell zu fahren “na ja” meinte er dann mit Blick auf Räder und Gepäck, “so schnell es halt geht…” Und so hatten wir die Strasse von der wir den meisten Verkehr zu befürchten hatten ganz für uns alleine. Olli vermutet eine französische Tatort-Version – er hörte Schüsse (und ist definitiv auf Tatort-Entzug)!
Die Pyrenäen rückten die ganze Zeit immer näher und kündigten uns an, dass wir morgen den ersten von 2 Bergtagen haben werden. Wir versuchen die Pyrenäen mit so geringer Steigung an der Küste entlang zu überqueren wie möglich – mal sehen wie sich das dann in der Realität anfühlt. Da die Beine inzwischen deutlich besser geworden sind, ist die Panik verschwunden und Respekt gewichen. Das wird schon gehen!

Beautiful bike road after Port la Nouvelle

Morgen also werden wir in Katalonien sein und damit ist das jetzt der letzt Blog dieser Reise aus Frankreich. Au Revoir von hier – morgen heisst es Benvinguts aus Catalunya!

Claudia & Olli

kottiblog

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Uncategorized

Barcelona Impressions – 3

Barcelona Impressions – 2

Barcelona Impressions -1

Leg 22, 23 & 24: Mountains!

Tag 22, 23 & 24: Die Berge rufen!

Tag 20 & 21: Genuss-Radeln in Roussillion

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